Rosewood – is common for sides, backs, and fingerboards.Ebony – is common fingerboards and bridges.Spruce/Cedar – are common for soundboards.Mahogany is the only other wood that can be used across ( mostly) an entire ukulele and produce a sound quality that rivals koa.īeyond these 2 woods, what you typically see is multi-wood ukuleles, which use different woods for different parts of instrument, similar to how most other acoustic instruments are made. So the next most popular “all-around” wood is… mahogany. Since koa does not grow naturally anywhere in the world outside of Hawaii…it’s rare to find non-Hawaiian manufacturers that regularly use this wood. Then its worth knowing that for most Hawaiians, koa is the one and only wood that ukuleles should ever be made from. If you consider Hawaii to be the top authority on ukuleles ( as most of us do)… The 2 most popular ukulele woods are undoubtedly: So up next, let’s examine each one in more detail. So what exactly makes one ukulele sound different from another? Once you’ve settled on a particular size, the next task is to narrow your options further by comparing features.Īnd of course… the most important features are those that have the biggest impact on sound/performance. Unless of course…what you really want is a mini guitar that sounds like a ukulele…as many guitar players do. However, because baritones do not use the same GCEA tuning of the other 3, I wouldn’t normally recommend them for starters. So any of the 3 smaller ones will do fine as a “first uke”. However, the concert and tenor sizes have their own set of advantages as well, the main ones being: The default option that most beginners start with is the soprano…since it is not only the “standard” size, but also the cheapest and most portable. Baritone (30″) – which is the largest of the 4, but tuned differently, using the same DGBE tuning as the top 4 strings of a guitar.
Soprano (20″) – which is the original and “ classic” sized ukulele.Your first job is to narrow down your options to 1 of 4 sizes:
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